Hemming · Next steps · 1 hour

Hem Pants or a Skirt by Hand

A hand-sewn hem barely shows from the outside, and it's easy to let down later. The trick is to catch just a thread or two of the outside fabric and keep the stitches loose.

Catch stitch: tiny stitches taken alternately in the garment and the hem make little Xs. Work left to right.

You'll need

pins
seam gauge or ruler
chalk
iron and pressing cloth
needle
matching thread
a helper

Step by step

Tick each step as you go if you like; ticks stay on this device.

Take out the old hemIf there's an old hem, unpick it with a seam ripper and press the old crease flat.
Mark the new lengthPut the garment on with the shoes you'll wear. Stand straight while a helper pins along the new fold, about every 3 inches, level with the floor.
Fold and pressTurn the garment inside out. Fold up along the pins, pinning every 2 to 3 inches, and press the fold. Try it on again to check.
Trim to an even depthMeasure from the fold with a seam gauge and mark an even hem depth. Use 1 to 2 inches for pants and 2 to 3 inches for skirts. Trim off the extra.
Finish the raw edgeStop fraying by zigzagging or pinking the edge, or by turning it under 1/4 inch and pressing.
Start at a seamUse a single matching thread, and hide the knot inside the hem at a side seam.
Catch stitch aroundWork left to right. Take a tiny stitch in the hem, then move about 1/4 inch along and take a tiny stitch of only one or two threads in the garment. The thread makes little Xs.
Keep it looseDon't pull tight. Every 12 inches or so, take two stitches in the same spot to lock the thread.
PressTake out the pins and press the hem fold, using a pressing cloth.

Tips

Catch stitch is good for pants, knits and heavy fabric. A blind stitch works the same way, picking up one thread of the garment, then the hem, with stitches 1/4 to 1/2 inch apart.
Before trimming, leave enough fabric in the hem that you could lengthen it later.
Hang a brand-new garment for a day before marking, especially skirts.

If something goes wrong

Problem	Fix
Little dimples show on the outside.	Take smaller bites, just one thread of the garment, and keep the thread looser.
The two legs are different lengths.	Measure each leg from the floor or the crotch seam before you trim, and compare.

Safe habits

An iron is very hot. Stand it on its heel between presses and keep the cord out of the way.

See it in the old books

Pictures and lessons from sewing and knitting books published more than a hundred years ago, free at the Internet Archive.

Sources

These are free how-to guides for families. There's nothing to earn, pass or send in.