Tough cuts like chuck, shank and short ribs become tender with time and gentle moist heat. Braising and stewing are how.
Key idea
Braise: brown large pieces, add liquid partway up (about a third to halfway), cover, and cook slowly in a low oven or at a bare simmer until tender. Stew: the same idea with smaller pieces covered in liquid. Slowly, the tough connective tissue (collagen) breaks down into gelatin, which gives body to the sauce and makes the meat moist.
- Brown the meat well, in batches, for flavor; remove it.
- Cook aromatics (onion, carrot, celery) in the same pan.
- Deglaze with wine or stock, scraping up the browned bits.
- Return the meat, add liquid, cover, and cook at a gentle simmer, often in an oven at about 300°F to 325°F.
- Cook until a fork slides in easily, then reduce the liquid into a sauce.
Why it works
Collagen needs time at temperatures around a simmer to turn into gelatin. A hard boil drives moisture out of the muscle fibers faster than the collagen softens, so meat can end both stringy and dry even though it sat in liquid.
Worked example: Braise or stew?
Lamb shanks, browned whole, cooked covered with wine halfway up.
- Large pieces, partly covered in liquid.
Answer: A braise.
Common mistake
Skipping the browning. The sauce lacks the deep flavor that the Maillard reaction builds.
Practice at home
- Braise 2 pounds of chuck in a covered pot at 300°F. Test with a fork every 30 minutes after the first 1½ hours and note when it turns tender.
- Chill the braise overnight and lift off the fat that sets on top. Notice how the liquid has jelled from the gelatin.
In Meal Prep
- Hunter's Chicken: a quick braise-style sauté with a sauce