A still life is a drawing of objects that do not move: fruit, cups, bottles, books, a vase. It is one of the best ways to practice, because your subject waits patiently while you study its shapes, its shading and its shadows. The setup matters as much as the drawing.
- Group the objects; let some overlap.
- Vary heights and sizes: something tall, something medium, something small.
- Leave uneven gaps and set some objects farther back than others.
- Light from one side with a single lamp or a window, so each form has a clear light side, shadow side and cast shadow.
Key idea
Group the objects, overlap some, vary their heights, leave uneven gaps, and light them from one side.
Why it works
Overlap and staggered depth give the eye depth cues. Different heights and uneven gaps make a more interesting shape for the whole group. A single light from the side gives each object a light side and a shadow side, which is what makes it look round or boxy. Light from straight above flattens forms and hides the shadows that describe them.
Worked example: Fix the setup
Ava lines up an apple, a mug, a bottle and a box in a straight row, evenly spaced, under the ceiling light. What would you change?
- Group them: move the apple in front of the mug so it overlaps.
- Put the tall bottle toward the back and the small apple toward the front.
- Make the gaps uneven.
- Turn off the ceiling light and use one lamp from the side.
Answer: Group and overlap them, stagger their depth and heights, and light them from one side.
Common mistake
The most common setup problem is a row: objects side by side, the same distance apart, often the same height, lit from straight above. It looks like a shelf in a store, and the drawing comes out flat. Before you draw, make a thumbnail or two to test the arrangement.
Painters have arranged still lifes this way for centuries. Cézanne tipped and overlapped his fruit and baskets on purpose in The Basket of Apples.